woodworking
When a person constructs or works with a piece of wood by shaping, whittling, carving, engraving or fashioning it into an article, it is called woodworking.
This unit deals with the different varieties of woodworking hand tools. Everyone should familiarize himself with these tools. He should know the name of each tool (local/technical), their descriptions, their uses, and how they are kept in good condition.
This unit deals with the different varieties of woodworking hand tools. Everyone should familiarize himself with these tools. He should know the name of each tool (local/technical), their descriptions, their uses, and how they are kept in good condition.
Mearuring tools
By its name, a measuring tool is a tool used to get measurements. some of the measuring tools commonly used are the 12-inch or foot rule, zigzag rule, push-pull steel rule, tri- square, steel square, sliding T-bevel, divider, and inside and outside calipers.
12-inch or Foot Rule. This is a measuring tool commonly used by school children for measuring and laying out. It is made of wood, plastic, or steel. The front edges are marked with divisions in inch (12”) while the edges on the other edge are marked in centimetres (30 cm).
Zigzag Rule. This is usually the first tool a carpenter picks up. It is made of either wood or light metal and is used for measuring long pieces. It measures from 2 (60 cm) to 8 (244 cm) feet long, folding is therefore necessary. One side uses the English system of measurement; the other side uses the metric type.
Push-Pull Rule. This is a handy measuring tool used for either inside or outside measuring. This flexible steel tape rule has a sliding knot that holds the tape while laying out a measurement using a hook on its end. When not in use, it can be clipped on one’s waist.
Tri-square. This is a tool used for measuring and testing the squareness of corners. It has two parts; the wooden handle and the blade which is made of metal fastened together at right angles.
Combination Tri-square. This is a new type of tri-square which is made of steel and has an adjustable or sliding handle. The handle is fastened by means of a knot usually clamped on a 12-inch (30.5 cm) blade. This handle is equipped with a spirit level.
Meter and Tri-square Combination. This is similar to the tri-square except that the handle attached to one of the blade is chambered at 45 degrees.
Steel Square. This looks like a tri-square except that the “body” and “tongue” are made of steel. The size of the steel square varies – 16” x 24” or 12” x 18”. The longer part is called the blade or body while the shorter portion is called the tongue. The steel square is used to test the squareness of a frame and the flatness of large surfaces.
Sliding T-Bevel. This is like a tri-square, except that is has an adjustable blade attached to the handle. It is used in testing and laying out any angle.
Divider. This is sometimes called a compass. It consists of two steel legs with sharpened points. They are held together by means of an adjustable screw and knot at the middle and adjustable joint springs at one end. It is used to draw a small circle or divide a straight line into equal dimension and length. A pencil can be attached to one of its legs.
Trammel Points. They are similar to a divider. The legs are attached to a steel bar or wooden stick of desired length so it can be adjusted to a desired distance. They are used to draw larger circles such as a circular table top. An improved trammel point can be constructed by driving two nails one on each end of a wooden stick.
Calipers. They belong to the family of dividers. A caliper with legs bent inward is used to measure the outside diameter of a wood turning, while a caliper with legs bent outward is used to measure the inside diameter.
12-inch or Foot Rule. This is a measuring tool commonly used by school children for measuring and laying out. It is made of wood, plastic, or steel. The front edges are marked with divisions in inch (12”) while the edges on the other edge are marked in centimetres (30 cm).
Zigzag Rule. This is usually the first tool a carpenter picks up. It is made of either wood or light metal and is used for measuring long pieces. It measures from 2 (60 cm) to 8 (244 cm) feet long, folding is therefore necessary. One side uses the English system of measurement; the other side uses the metric type.
Push-Pull Rule. This is a handy measuring tool used for either inside or outside measuring. This flexible steel tape rule has a sliding knot that holds the tape while laying out a measurement using a hook on its end. When not in use, it can be clipped on one’s waist.
Tri-square. This is a tool used for measuring and testing the squareness of corners. It has two parts; the wooden handle and the blade which is made of metal fastened together at right angles.
Combination Tri-square. This is a new type of tri-square which is made of steel and has an adjustable or sliding handle. The handle is fastened by means of a knot usually clamped on a 12-inch (30.5 cm) blade. This handle is equipped with a spirit level.
Meter and Tri-square Combination. This is similar to the tri-square except that the handle attached to one of the blade is chambered at 45 degrees.
Steel Square. This looks like a tri-square except that the “body” and “tongue” are made of steel. The size of the steel square varies – 16” x 24” or 12” x 18”. The longer part is called the blade or body while the shorter portion is called the tongue. The steel square is used to test the squareness of a frame and the flatness of large surfaces.
Sliding T-Bevel. This is like a tri-square, except that is has an adjustable blade attached to the handle. It is used in testing and laying out any angle.
Divider. This is sometimes called a compass. It consists of two steel legs with sharpened points. They are held together by means of an adjustable screw and knot at the middle and adjustable joint springs at one end. It is used to draw a small circle or divide a straight line into equal dimension and length. A pencil can be attached to one of its legs.
Trammel Points. They are similar to a divider. The legs are attached to a steel bar or wooden stick of desired length so it can be adjusted to a desired distance. They are used to draw larger circles such as a circular table top. An improved trammel point can be constructed by driving two nails one on each end of a wooden stick.
Calipers. They belong to the family of dividers. A caliper with legs bent inward is used to measure the outside diameter of a wood turning, while a caliper with legs bent outward is used to measure the inside diameter.
Lining Tools
Lining tools are tools used to mark what is measured or to be measured. Some lining tools are pencil, chalkline, marking gauge, mortise gauge, knife, awl, and divider.
Pencil. In the past, a carpenter’s pencil is a requirement in woodworking. It has the same length as an ordinary pencil; however, its lead and body are flat and bigger. Today, any pencil will do.
Chalkline. This is a boxlike instrument with a hollow pat wherein a spool for string and a small piece of rug are inserted. When the string is pulled out, it passes through the rug which is wet with pulverized charcoal. As both ends of the string are tightly fixed on the desired length to be measured, the string is plucked toward the surface. The mark that is left becomes the chalkline. Some carpenters adjust their chalkline as the shape varies.
Marking Gauge. Most common of all gauges is the marking gauge. It consists of awooden bar called beam about 8 inches (20.3 cm) long wherein wooden block or head slides. Near the end of the bar, a spur with fine point is nailed. It is used for marking lines parallel to the edge of a board.
Mortise Gauge. This is a marking gauge with two spurs nailed in two beams held together inside the head. Both beams are adjustable and can be spaced at different distances to mark two parallel lines simultaneously. This gauge is used in laying out mortise and tenon, hence, the name mortise gauge.
Awl. This is a pointed tool used for marking location of nail and screw. It is also used for scratching lines especially on metal sheets or plates. Called scratch or bradawl, the tool looks like an ice pick.
Pencil. In the past, a carpenter’s pencil is a requirement in woodworking. It has the same length as an ordinary pencil; however, its lead and body are flat and bigger. Today, any pencil will do.
Chalkline. This is a boxlike instrument with a hollow pat wherein a spool for string and a small piece of rug are inserted. When the string is pulled out, it passes through the rug which is wet with pulverized charcoal. As both ends of the string are tightly fixed on the desired length to be measured, the string is plucked toward the surface. The mark that is left becomes the chalkline. Some carpenters adjust their chalkline as the shape varies.
Marking Gauge. Most common of all gauges is the marking gauge. It consists of awooden bar called beam about 8 inches (20.3 cm) long wherein wooden block or head slides. Near the end of the bar, a spur with fine point is nailed. It is used for marking lines parallel to the edge of a board.
Mortise Gauge. This is a marking gauge with two spurs nailed in two beams held together inside the head. Both beams are adjustable and can be spaced at different distances to mark two parallel lines simultaneously. This gauge is used in laying out mortise and tenon, hence, the name mortise gauge.
Awl. This is a pointed tool used for marking location of nail and screw. It is also used for scratching lines especially on metal sheets or plates. Called scratch or bradawl, the tool looks like an ice pick.
Cutting Tools
Cutting tools are grouped into two: the edge-cutting and the tooth-cutting tools.
Edge-cutting Tools
These tools wherein the sharp edge or the cutting side of the blade is used for cutting, like the knife, bolo, axe, hatchet, adze, chisel, plane, spokeshave, and gouge.
Knife. This is a tool used to cut or whittle pieces of wood, like a pocketknife or a slyod knife.
Bolo. This is along heavy knife used for cutting pieces of wood.
Axe. It is used for cutting down trees and splitting logs. The handle is long and held by both hands. It can be a single-backed or two-bitted axe.
Hatchet. This is smaller than an axe and has a short handle. It is used for chopping pieces of wood. Some hatchet has a slot on the blade used for drawing out nail and a head for driving nail.
Adze. This is used for squaring logs and in making boats. It is a sharp, heavy and tempered grub-hoe-like instrument.
Chisel. This is a very important tool in the construction of most joints made by hand. Wood chisels may be divided into two general classes: socket firmer chisel and tang firmer chisel.
1. Socket Firmer Chisel is a tool with a handle that is inserted into the part of the chisel known as socket.
2. Tang Firmer Chisel has a part called “tang” that is inserted into the handle.
The names indicate how the chisels are manufactured. Both types have bevelled cutting edges. Chisels are measured according to their width in inches. For commercial use, the sizes range from 1/8” (0.03 cm) to 2” (0.05 cm). However, for a special type of work or joint, a 4-inch chisel is available.
Other types of chisels include:
a. Butt Chisel has a shorter blade used in chiselling space or gains for hinges.
b. Mortise Chisel has a very thick part below the handle, tapered down to the cutting edge. It is used in chiselling mortises and leers and in forcing the shavings out of the mortise. It is also used in making canals in window sills.
Gouge. This is like a chisel whose blade is bent or hallowed lengthwise. It is used for grooving and shaping edges.
1. Inside-Bevel Gouge – The bevel is on the concave side.
2. Outside-Bevel Gouge – The bevel is on the convex side.
Carving tools are gouges of different shapes and bents. Some carving tools are the veining tools, straight gouge, skew chisel, and bent gouge.
Drawknife. This is a long bladed tool with handles on both ends. It is used for straight and curved rough cutting. The user grips the handles and draws the knife towards him.
Spokeshave. It is a tool suitable for smoothing curves and shaping edges of the board. The cutting blade is sharpened like a plane iron.
Scraper. This is used for the final smoothing before sandpapering. It removes the slight ridges left by the plane. It is also used to smoothen surfaces that are difficult to plane because of curly or irregular grain. The two-kinds of scrapers are:
1. Hand Scraper is a piece of square-edged sharpened metal held in the hand when used. It can either be pushed or pulled depending on the grain of the wood or whatever is convenient. It is held firmly between the thumb and fingers at an angle of about 75 degrees and pushed or pulled by the pressure of the thumbs.
2. Cabinet Scraper is especially used to smoothen surfaces and cross-grained wood. The handle is like that of the spokeshave with the scraper inserted.
Plane. This is a very useful woodworking tool. After measuring and sawing the rough piece of lumber, planning follows. The size and form of materials require the right type of plane needed to smoothen the job.
Although there are many types of plane, the process of assembling, adjusting and handling planes are alike. Try to disassemble and assemble a plane before using it. Get acquainted with its parts and uses.
Some of the most common types of planes are wooden, jack, smoothing, jointer, and block planes.
1. Wooden Plane is the oldest type of plane. It consists of a cutting iron blade wedged or squared in a block of hard wood. It is lighter in weight, cheaper, and for general use.
2. Jack Plane is a general purpose plane. It is used for smoothing and jointing. It is about 14” (35 cm) long and 2” (5 cm) wide. It consists of an iron body to which the iron parts are attached.
3. Smoothing Plane is similar to the jack plane although shorter. The bottom measures 5.5” (14 cm) to 8” (20.3 cm) long. It is used for planning smaller pieces. It has a very fine work.
4. Jointer Plane looks like a jack plane. The only difference is that the bottom is longer, 22” (56 cm) to 30” (76.2 cm) long. It is used in planing the edges of long boards and in levelling longer and wider surfaces.
5. Block Plane is a small plane, 4” (10.2 cm) to 6” (15.3 cm) inches long. The parts differ from the iron plane. It is ideal for planing the end grain and for easy handling of small jobs.
Planing
Planing surfaces, edges, and end grains accurately with a hand plane requires skills and a sharp plane iron or blade.
Obtaining a smooth surface:
1. Select the best surface or face of the board.
2. Place the board on the bench with a stopper.
3. Plane the surface along the grain until it is clean and smooth. If the grain is rough, reverse the work. If it is curly, sharpen the plane.
4. Test the flatness of surface with a tri-square or steel square. The entire blade should touch the surface throughout the board.
Obtaining a smooth straight edge:
1. Select the best edge of the board.
2. Set the board on the bench with a stopper or fasten it in a vise.
3. Push the plane along the grain, that is, in the uphill direction of the fibers.
4. Plane the edge until it is perpendicular with the working face.
5. Test the edge with the face for squareness by means of a tri-square.
Planing the end grain:
1. Select the best end of the board.
2. Fasten the board in a vise.
3. Chamfer a corner of the end.
4. Plane the end grain halfway from each and until it has squareness.
5. Do the planing until the six sides are thoroughly finished.
Edge-cutting Tools
These tools wherein the sharp edge or the cutting side of the blade is used for cutting, like the knife, bolo, axe, hatchet, adze, chisel, plane, spokeshave, and gouge.
Knife. This is a tool used to cut or whittle pieces of wood, like a pocketknife or a slyod knife.
Bolo. This is along heavy knife used for cutting pieces of wood.
Axe. It is used for cutting down trees and splitting logs. The handle is long and held by both hands. It can be a single-backed or two-bitted axe.
Hatchet. This is smaller than an axe and has a short handle. It is used for chopping pieces of wood. Some hatchet has a slot on the blade used for drawing out nail and a head for driving nail.
Adze. This is used for squaring logs and in making boats. It is a sharp, heavy and tempered grub-hoe-like instrument.
Chisel. This is a very important tool in the construction of most joints made by hand. Wood chisels may be divided into two general classes: socket firmer chisel and tang firmer chisel.
1. Socket Firmer Chisel is a tool with a handle that is inserted into the part of the chisel known as socket.
2. Tang Firmer Chisel has a part called “tang” that is inserted into the handle.
The names indicate how the chisels are manufactured. Both types have bevelled cutting edges. Chisels are measured according to their width in inches. For commercial use, the sizes range from 1/8” (0.03 cm) to 2” (0.05 cm). However, for a special type of work or joint, a 4-inch chisel is available.
Other types of chisels include:
a. Butt Chisel has a shorter blade used in chiselling space or gains for hinges.
b. Mortise Chisel has a very thick part below the handle, tapered down to the cutting edge. It is used in chiselling mortises and leers and in forcing the shavings out of the mortise. It is also used in making canals in window sills.
Gouge. This is like a chisel whose blade is bent or hallowed lengthwise. It is used for grooving and shaping edges.
1. Inside-Bevel Gouge – The bevel is on the concave side.
2. Outside-Bevel Gouge – The bevel is on the convex side.
Carving tools are gouges of different shapes and bents. Some carving tools are the veining tools, straight gouge, skew chisel, and bent gouge.
Drawknife. This is a long bladed tool with handles on both ends. It is used for straight and curved rough cutting. The user grips the handles and draws the knife towards him.
Spokeshave. It is a tool suitable for smoothing curves and shaping edges of the board. The cutting blade is sharpened like a plane iron.
Scraper. This is used for the final smoothing before sandpapering. It removes the slight ridges left by the plane. It is also used to smoothen surfaces that are difficult to plane because of curly or irregular grain. The two-kinds of scrapers are:
1. Hand Scraper is a piece of square-edged sharpened metal held in the hand when used. It can either be pushed or pulled depending on the grain of the wood or whatever is convenient. It is held firmly between the thumb and fingers at an angle of about 75 degrees and pushed or pulled by the pressure of the thumbs.
2. Cabinet Scraper is especially used to smoothen surfaces and cross-grained wood. The handle is like that of the spokeshave with the scraper inserted.
Plane. This is a very useful woodworking tool. After measuring and sawing the rough piece of lumber, planning follows. The size and form of materials require the right type of plane needed to smoothen the job.
Although there are many types of plane, the process of assembling, adjusting and handling planes are alike. Try to disassemble and assemble a plane before using it. Get acquainted with its parts and uses.
Some of the most common types of planes are wooden, jack, smoothing, jointer, and block planes.
1. Wooden Plane is the oldest type of plane. It consists of a cutting iron blade wedged or squared in a block of hard wood. It is lighter in weight, cheaper, and for general use.
2. Jack Plane is a general purpose plane. It is used for smoothing and jointing. It is about 14” (35 cm) long and 2” (5 cm) wide. It consists of an iron body to which the iron parts are attached.
3. Smoothing Plane is similar to the jack plane although shorter. The bottom measures 5.5” (14 cm) to 8” (20.3 cm) long. It is used for planning smaller pieces. It has a very fine work.
4. Jointer Plane looks like a jack plane. The only difference is that the bottom is longer, 22” (56 cm) to 30” (76.2 cm) long. It is used in planing the edges of long boards and in levelling longer and wider surfaces.
5. Block Plane is a small plane, 4” (10.2 cm) to 6” (15.3 cm) inches long. The parts differ from the iron plane. It is ideal for planing the end grain and for easy handling of small jobs.
Planing
Planing surfaces, edges, and end grains accurately with a hand plane requires skills and a sharp plane iron or blade.
Obtaining a smooth surface:
1. Select the best surface or face of the board.
2. Place the board on the bench with a stopper.
3. Plane the surface along the grain until it is clean and smooth. If the grain is rough, reverse the work. If it is curly, sharpen the plane.
4. Test the flatness of surface with a tri-square or steel square. The entire blade should touch the surface throughout the board.
Obtaining a smooth straight edge:
1. Select the best edge of the board.
2. Set the board on the bench with a stopper or fasten it in a vise.
3. Push the plane along the grain, that is, in the uphill direction of the fibers.
4. Plane the edge until it is perpendicular with the working face.
5. Test the edge with the face for squareness by means of a tri-square.
Planing the end grain:
1. Select the best end of the board.
2. Fasten the board in a vise.
3. Chamfer a corner of the end.
4. Plane the end grain halfway from each and until it has squareness.
5. Do the planing until the six sides are thoroughly finished.
Tooth-cutting Tools
Tooth-cutting tools are tools wherein the teeth or serrations are used for cutting, shaping, smoothing, reducing, or sharpening. Saws and files are tooth-cutting tools.
Saw. This is one of the oldest tools known. Some of the common saws are as follows: crosscut saw, ripsaw, backsaw, dovetail saw, compass saw, keyhole saw, turning or native saw, coping saw, and two-man saw.
The length of the blade in inches tells the size of the saw. Some popular sizes are 24” (61 cm) and 26” (66 cm) in length. The number of points per inch determines the coarseness or fineness of a saw. A coarse saw is better for doing fast work and/or cutting undried green lumber. A fine saw is better for smooth and accurate cutting of dry seasoned wood. The number on the heel of a saw tells the number of points per inch. For example, No. 8 indicated at the heel near the handle would mean that there are 8 points in an inch but there are 7 complete teeth. Set means to bend the teeth to alternate sides to increase the width of the saw kerf. That is, every other tooth is bent to the right and the rest of the teeth are bent to the left to make the kerf wider. Kerf is the slot the saw cuts in the wood. Wider saw cut prevents the saw from sticking or bending in the kerf. Always keep saw teeth sharp and properly set.
The types of saw are:
1. Crosscut Saw is used to cut across the grain of fiber of the wood. The teeth are like knife point. They ct like two rows of knife points and ride out the sawdusts between the cuts. A carpenter usually selects a 7- or 8-crosscut saw.
2. Ripsaw is used for ripping or cutting along the grain of the wood. The teeth are larger and cut like chisels. Common ripsaws have five or six points per inch.
3. Backsaw is a crosscut saw with a thin blade and fine teeth. A heavy piece of steel is fitted on the back, hence, the name backsaw. Such steel is fitted to prevent the blade from buckling or bending. The common length of a backsaw is 12 inches (30.5 cm) with 14 points per inch. This saw is used for fine accurate works.
4. Dovetail Saw is a backsaw with a thinner, narrower blade, and finer teeth. The handle of a dovetail saw is like that of a chisel. It is used for very fine works such as cutting dovetails in wood joints.
5. Compass Saw has teeth that are shaped like a rip saw. Only that the blade is so narrow that it can cut on curved lines. It is particularly used to cut a curve section within a board or panel. The pointed tip of the compass saw is inserted in the bored hole near the line.
6. Keyhole Saw is a compass saw with a smaller and finer blade. It is used to cut curved or straight-sided holes.
7. Turning Saw has a very narrow blade held in a tension frame. The teeth are like that of a rip saw. It is used for cutting irregular curved shapes since the blade can be revolved or turned around in the frame. Sometimes it is called native saw. Others call it web saw.
8. Coping Saw is a very small turning saw held in a metal frame. It is used to cut irregular shapes and intricately curved patterns in thin wood, plywood, or lawanit.
9. Two-Man Saw has two handles on either side. The teeth are bigger than that of the ordinary saw and the blade is wider. It is used in cutting logs into lumber and plank or board.
Files. These are made of hardened steel. They have teeth or serrations cut diagonally across the surface at various degrees of fineness and pattern.
The length of the blade of the file is from the toe to the heel. It varies from 4” (10.2 cm) to 18” (45.8 cm).
Files are named after their shapes such as rectangular, square, triangular, and round or half-round file. They have teeth on both faces and edges. However, a flat or rectangular file has one or both safe edges to protect one side of the work.
The shape of a file tells also where and how it will be used, like square file for narrow gaps and square holes, round file for round hole, half-round file for concave edges, rectangular file for filing in corners, and triangular file for square holes and grooves and for sharpening the teeth of the saws.
All files have a wooden handle before they are used. The handle is like that of a chisel wherein the tang is inserted by knocking the handle end to a solid block. Ferrule is placed in the handle to protect it from splitting.
Files are also distinguished according to the manner by which the teeth are cut or arranged like:
1. Single Cut. In a triangular file, oblique parallel lines across the surface are noticeable.
2. Double Cut. Two sets of parallel lines across each other obliquely as in flat and mill files.
3. Open Cut. The oblique parallel lines are slightly broken especially in a round file.
After using the file, it is cleaned by rubbing a wire brush along the rows of teeth. This wire brush is called file card or file brush.
Store or keep the files in rows so that they do not knock against each other. Remember they are made of steel and are brittle. Better still, arrange them in rack. Avoid oil and grease. File teeth will only bite into clean dry piece of work.
Rasp is like a file. The surface is covered with rough and raised triangular points or projection called teeth. Rasp cuts faster and rougher. It is a good shaper but a poor finishing tool. They can be bought commonly in flat and half-round shapes.
Saw. This is one of the oldest tools known. Some of the common saws are as follows: crosscut saw, ripsaw, backsaw, dovetail saw, compass saw, keyhole saw, turning or native saw, coping saw, and two-man saw.
The length of the blade in inches tells the size of the saw. Some popular sizes are 24” (61 cm) and 26” (66 cm) in length. The number of points per inch determines the coarseness or fineness of a saw. A coarse saw is better for doing fast work and/or cutting undried green lumber. A fine saw is better for smooth and accurate cutting of dry seasoned wood. The number on the heel of a saw tells the number of points per inch. For example, No. 8 indicated at the heel near the handle would mean that there are 8 points in an inch but there are 7 complete teeth. Set means to bend the teeth to alternate sides to increase the width of the saw kerf. That is, every other tooth is bent to the right and the rest of the teeth are bent to the left to make the kerf wider. Kerf is the slot the saw cuts in the wood. Wider saw cut prevents the saw from sticking or bending in the kerf. Always keep saw teeth sharp and properly set.
The types of saw are:
1. Crosscut Saw is used to cut across the grain of fiber of the wood. The teeth are like knife point. They ct like two rows of knife points and ride out the sawdusts between the cuts. A carpenter usually selects a 7- or 8-crosscut saw.
2. Ripsaw is used for ripping or cutting along the grain of the wood. The teeth are larger and cut like chisels. Common ripsaws have five or six points per inch.
3. Backsaw is a crosscut saw with a thin blade and fine teeth. A heavy piece of steel is fitted on the back, hence, the name backsaw. Such steel is fitted to prevent the blade from buckling or bending. The common length of a backsaw is 12 inches (30.5 cm) with 14 points per inch. This saw is used for fine accurate works.
4. Dovetail Saw is a backsaw with a thinner, narrower blade, and finer teeth. The handle of a dovetail saw is like that of a chisel. It is used for very fine works such as cutting dovetails in wood joints.
5. Compass Saw has teeth that are shaped like a rip saw. Only that the blade is so narrow that it can cut on curved lines. It is particularly used to cut a curve section within a board or panel. The pointed tip of the compass saw is inserted in the bored hole near the line.
6. Keyhole Saw is a compass saw with a smaller and finer blade. It is used to cut curved or straight-sided holes.
7. Turning Saw has a very narrow blade held in a tension frame. The teeth are like that of a rip saw. It is used for cutting irregular curved shapes since the blade can be revolved or turned around in the frame. Sometimes it is called native saw. Others call it web saw.
8. Coping Saw is a very small turning saw held in a metal frame. It is used to cut irregular shapes and intricately curved patterns in thin wood, plywood, or lawanit.
9. Two-Man Saw has two handles on either side. The teeth are bigger than that of the ordinary saw and the blade is wider. It is used in cutting logs into lumber and plank or board.
Files. These are made of hardened steel. They have teeth or serrations cut diagonally across the surface at various degrees of fineness and pattern.
The length of the blade of the file is from the toe to the heel. It varies from 4” (10.2 cm) to 18” (45.8 cm).
Files are named after their shapes such as rectangular, square, triangular, and round or half-round file. They have teeth on both faces and edges. However, a flat or rectangular file has one or both safe edges to protect one side of the work.
The shape of a file tells also where and how it will be used, like square file for narrow gaps and square holes, round file for round hole, half-round file for concave edges, rectangular file for filing in corners, and triangular file for square holes and grooves and for sharpening the teeth of the saws.
All files have a wooden handle before they are used. The handle is like that of a chisel wherein the tang is inserted by knocking the handle end to a solid block. Ferrule is placed in the handle to protect it from splitting.
Files are also distinguished according to the manner by which the teeth are cut or arranged like:
1. Single Cut. In a triangular file, oblique parallel lines across the surface are noticeable.
2. Double Cut. Two sets of parallel lines across each other obliquely as in flat and mill files.
3. Open Cut. The oblique parallel lines are slightly broken especially in a round file.
After using the file, it is cleaned by rubbing a wire brush along the rows of teeth. This wire brush is called file card or file brush.
Store or keep the files in rows so that they do not knock against each other. Remember they are made of steel and are brittle. Better still, arrange them in rack. Avoid oil and grease. File teeth will only bite into clean dry piece of work.
Rasp is like a file. The surface is covered with rough and raised triangular points or projection called teeth. Rasp cuts faster and rougher. It is a good shaper but a poor finishing tool. They can be bought commonly in flat and half-round shapes.
Boring Tools
In woodworking, boring is the process of making a hole on a piece of wood. Drilling is the term used in metal work.
Woodworkers use bits, bradawl, countersilk, and chisels for boring holes. Holes are bored in wood to fit screws, bolts, dowels, internal sawing design and for other purposes.
Like chisels, bits vary in shape and structure depending on the type of work. Some of the most common bits are auger bit, twist bit, expansive bit, Foerstner bit, gimlets, and drill bit.
The Most Common Bits
Auger Bit. This is a screw-shaped tool consisting of the twist, shank, and tang. The common sizes of auger bit range from 3/16” (0.47 cm) to 1” (2.54 cm). The length is 5” (12.7 cm) to 10” (25.4 cm) overall.
Dowel bit is a short auger bit. Its length is about 4” (10.2 cm) long overall.
Expansive Bit. This has a movable cutter that can be adjusted for various sizes of holes. It takes the place of many large bits. Moving the cutter adjusting screw in one complete turn enlarges or reduces the hole to 1/8” (0.32 cm). One half turn is 1/16” (0.16 cm).
Before boring the work, test the size on a piece of waste wood. When boring through, clamp a piece of spare wood on the back of the work to prevent splitting.
Twist Bit. This is used to make holes for screws, nails, or bolts. They are sized by the 32nd of an inch.
Foerstner Bit. This has no twist and feed screw. It has a sharp circular steel rim and two lips within the rim that cut on the wood. It is used to bore holes partway through where the auger bits screw or spur would go through. It bores accurately on or near end grains. The size is stamped on the tang in 16th of an inch.
Gimlet Bit. This is used in boring holes of small diameters. It serves as a guide hole in inserting screw in hardwood. The cutting edge is on the side so it cannot be resharpened.
Drill Bit. As the name implies, it is designed and tempered for drilling holes in metal. It may also be used in repair work where contact of nails or metal is possible. The drill bit used in metal has a round shank, while the one used in woodworking has a square shank. They are sized by the 32nd of an inch.
Countersink Bit. This is a small cone-shaped tool used to widen the opening of the holes for the flathead screws. This is done to level up the flathead screw with the surface of the work.
There are two kind of countersink bit: the open and closed countersinks. The open countersink can be sharpened using an oil stone.
Bradawl. This looks like a small screwdriver. It is used to make holes into wood for small screws and nails. The hole is made by forcing the awl into the wood with a twisting motion. The bradawl should not be used in thin wood or near the edges. Remember, it does not cut any shavings. It only forces the wood fibers apart.
Things to consider in buying bits:
1. Number stamped on the tang
a. Auger bit and Foertsner bit are marked by the 16th of an inch. Number 8 on the tang means 8/16 in. to ½ in. (1.27 cm) of the diameter or size of the bit.
b. Twist bits for wood are sized by the 32nd of an inch. Number 6 stands for 6/32 in. or 3/16 in. (.47 cm); 8 means 8/32 in. or ¼ in. (.64 cm).
2. Feed Screw
The three different feed screws are:
a. Standard Double Thread
1. The threads are fine and very close to each other.
2. Best for general work in dry wood
b. Single Thread
1. The threads are far apart.
2. Best for cutting wet and gummy wood
c. Diamond Point
1. No thread at all
2. Used for machine boring
The auger bit is sharpened with a bit file. The edge can be whetted with a slipstone and the cutting edges must be kept even. To avoid rust, store the bits in racks.
Steps in placing the bit inside the jaws:
1. Select the correct size of bit to be used.
2. Grasp the chuck shell and turn the handle to the left until the jaws are wide open.
3. Insert the bit shank until it reaches the bottom of the chuck.
4. Tighten the chuck shell until the bit is firmly in the jaws.
5. Start boring the holes vertically, horizontally, or in whatever direction.
Woodworkers use bits, bradawl, countersilk, and chisels for boring holes. Holes are bored in wood to fit screws, bolts, dowels, internal sawing design and for other purposes.
Like chisels, bits vary in shape and structure depending on the type of work. Some of the most common bits are auger bit, twist bit, expansive bit, Foerstner bit, gimlets, and drill bit.
The Most Common Bits
Auger Bit. This is a screw-shaped tool consisting of the twist, shank, and tang. The common sizes of auger bit range from 3/16” (0.47 cm) to 1” (2.54 cm). The length is 5” (12.7 cm) to 10” (25.4 cm) overall.
Dowel bit is a short auger bit. Its length is about 4” (10.2 cm) long overall.
Expansive Bit. This has a movable cutter that can be adjusted for various sizes of holes. It takes the place of many large bits. Moving the cutter adjusting screw in one complete turn enlarges or reduces the hole to 1/8” (0.32 cm). One half turn is 1/16” (0.16 cm).
Before boring the work, test the size on a piece of waste wood. When boring through, clamp a piece of spare wood on the back of the work to prevent splitting.
Twist Bit. This is used to make holes for screws, nails, or bolts. They are sized by the 32nd of an inch.
Foerstner Bit. This has no twist and feed screw. It has a sharp circular steel rim and two lips within the rim that cut on the wood. It is used to bore holes partway through where the auger bits screw or spur would go through. It bores accurately on or near end grains. The size is stamped on the tang in 16th of an inch.
Gimlet Bit. This is used in boring holes of small diameters. It serves as a guide hole in inserting screw in hardwood. The cutting edge is on the side so it cannot be resharpened.
Drill Bit. As the name implies, it is designed and tempered for drilling holes in metal. It may also be used in repair work where contact of nails or metal is possible. The drill bit used in metal has a round shank, while the one used in woodworking has a square shank. They are sized by the 32nd of an inch.
Countersink Bit. This is a small cone-shaped tool used to widen the opening of the holes for the flathead screws. This is done to level up the flathead screw with the surface of the work.
There are two kind of countersink bit: the open and closed countersinks. The open countersink can be sharpened using an oil stone.
Bradawl. This looks like a small screwdriver. It is used to make holes into wood for small screws and nails. The hole is made by forcing the awl into the wood with a twisting motion. The bradawl should not be used in thin wood or near the edges. Remember, it does not cut any shavings. It only forces the wood fibers apart.
Things to consider in buying bits:
1. Number stamped on the tang
a. Auger bit and Foertsner bit are marked by the 16th of an inch. Number 8 on the tang means 8/16 in. to ½ in. (1.27 cm) of the diameter or size of the bit.
b. Twist bits for wood are sized by the 32nd of an inch. Number 6 stands for 6/32 in. or 3/16 in. (.47 cm); 8 means 8/32 in. or ¼ in. (.64 cm).
2. Feed Screw
The three different feed screws are:
a. Standard Double Thread
1. The threads are fine and very close to each other.
2. Best for general work in dry wood
b. Single Thread
1. The threads are far apart.
2. Best for cutting wet and gummy wood
c. Diamond Point
1. No thread at all
2. Used for machine boring
The auger bit is sharpened with a bit file. The edge can be whetted with a slipstone and the cutting edges must be kept even. To avoid rust, store the bits in racks.
Steps in placing the bit inside the jaws:
1. Select the correct size of bit to be used.
2. Grasp the chuck shell and turn the handle to the left until the jaws are wide open.
3. Insert the bit shank until it reaches the bottom of the chuck.
4. Tighten the chuck shell until the bit is firmly in the jaws.
5. Start boring the holes vertically, horizontally, or in whatever direction.
Holding Tools
Holding tools are tools used for holding pieces of work, bladed tools, and for clamping pieces of wood to be glued.
Some of the holding tools are braces, hand grill, vises, bench hook, miter boxes, pliers, pincers and clamps, (c-clamp, bar clamp, and hand screw clamp).
Brace. This is a tool used to hold a bit firmly while boring a hole. It holds all kinds of bits with a square tang or shank that can be inserted into the jaws. Ordinarily, a plain brace is used in woodworking. In cases wherein a complete turn of the handle is not possible, like boring hole in corner or where some objects or obstacles prevent making a full turn of the handle, a ratchet brace is indispensable.
Rachet brace has a rachet box that permits turning the handle halfway. The rachet brace consists of the rachet end, pawl, and cam ring. Turning the cam ring to the right will allow the bit to turn right and vice versa.
Hand Drill. This is actually a machinist’s tool. It is used for rapid boring of small holes, 1 cm or less in diameter. Like the brace, insert the bit through the chuck and tighten. To remove the bit, do the opposite.
Boring should be started by punching a centre hole bigger with the help of an awl. Steadily, hold the drill in the desired direction and exert even pressure. Turn the crank at a constant speed and not too fast. Do not wobble while turning. It will make the hole bigger and break the bit. Bits are small and need delicate handling.
Automatic drill is used for smaller and rapid boring of holes.
Vise. This is a very useful tool in woodworking. The recommended vises are the fixed and portable types.
a. Fixed Vise is permanently attached to the side of the bench.
b. Portable Vise is attached in a place where it is most needed.
Kinds of Vises:
1. Rapid-acting vise can be opened and closed by means of a pressing lever attached near the main screw. In another quick-acting vise, the screw thread is cut away throughout the length that permits the easy pulling out of the jaw vise. Turn the handle to tighten or loosen the vise.
2. Screw vise is an ordinary vise. It is tightened or loosened by turning the screw. It is also attached to the bench permanently by means of bolts.
3. Machinist vise is the all-purpose vise. It is adjusted by means of a screw.
4. Wooden vise are two pieces of hardwood put together by means of a bolt that serves as a screw. At the bottom, a wedge is attached to the moving jaw that is inserted to the fixed jaw.
Bench Hook. This is a rectangular piece of plank with a piece of wood nailed beneath for hooking on top of a bench and another for taking the thrust of saw or plane. It is used as a support while sawing and planning small objects. It is also used as a protection while chopping on top of the bench.
Mitre Box. The iron mitre box is the commercial type made of wood or metal. It consists of an iron frame fitted with a backsaw. Since, it can be adjusted at any angle, it is good for mitering mouldings and picture frames.
The wooden mitre box is the homemade type. It is used in cutting pieces of wood at right angle.
Clamps. These are tools used in furniture and cabinet making. It holds the work together while gluing and fastening pieces of wood.
There are several types of clamps. The most commonly used are:
a. C-clamp is named after its shape. It consists of an iron frame of letter C and a steel screw with a swivel tip. It is used for holding pieces of wood to be glued and nailed. C-clamp is also used in fastening wood on top of the bench while working on it. The sizes, when fully opened, range from 5.8 cm to 50.8 cm. Other manufacturers call this G-clamp because it also looks like an inverted letter G.
b. Bar clamp is used to hold long and big pieces of wood or plank to be glued. The sizes range from ½ m to 2.5 m.
c. Hand-Screw clamp is used to hold finishing work. It consists of two jaws made of hard wood and two steel spindles wherein the screws are opposite each other. They are opened or closed by holding the handles in each hand and revolving the hand screw. The size of the hand screw is indicated by the length of its jaws which ranges from 14 cm. to 45 cm.
Carpenter’s Pincers. This is used for pulling nails.
Other holding tools that are very useful in the shop are the following:
1. Wrenches
a. Adjustable Wrench
b. Monkey Wrench
c. Pipe Wrench
2. Pliers
a. Slip Joint Plier
b. Combination Plier
c. Vise Grip Plier
d. Long nose Plier
3. Saw Horse
Some of the holding tools are braces, hand grill, vises, bench hook, miter boxes, pliers, pincers and clamps, (c-clamp, bar clamp, and hand screw clamp).
Brace. This is a tool used to hold a bit firmly while boring a hole. It holds all kinds of bits with a square tang or shank that can be inserted into the jaws. Ordinarily, a plain brace is used in woodworking. In cases wherein a complete turn of the handle is not possible, like boring hole in corner or where some objects or obstacles prevent making a full turn of the handle, a ratchet brace is indispensable.
Rachet brace has a rachet box that permits turning the handle halfway. The rachet brace consists of the rachet end, pawl, and cam ring. Turning the cam ring to the right will allow the bit to turn right and vice versa.
Hand Drill. This is actually a machinist’s tool. It is used for rapid boring of small holes, 1 cm or less in diameter. Like the brace, insert the bit through the chuck and tighten. To remove the bit, do the opposite.
Boring should be started by punching a centre hole bigger with the help of an awl. Steadily, hold the drill in the desired direction and exert even pressure. Turn the crank at a constant speed and not too fast. Do not wobble while turning. It will make the hole bigger and break the bit. Bits are small and need delicate handling.
Automatic drill is used for smaller and rapid boring of holes.
Vise. This is a very useful tool in woodworking. The recommended vises are the fixed and portable types.
a. Fixed Vise is permanently attached to the side of the bench.
b. Portable Vise is attached in a place where it is most needed.
Kinds of Vises:
1. Rapid-acting vise can be opened and closed by means of a pressing lever attached near the main screw. In another quick-acting vise, the screw thread is cut away throughout the length that permits the easy pulling out of the jaw vise. Turn the handle to tighten or loosen the vise.
2. Screw vise is an ordinary vise. It is tightened or loosened by turning the screw. It is also attached to the bench permanently by means of bolts.
3. Machinist vise is the all-purpose vise. It is adjusted by means of a screw.
4. Wooden vise are two pieces of hardwood put together by means of a bolt that serves as a screw. At the bottom, a wedge is attached to the moving jaw that is inserted to the fixed jaw.
Bench Hook. This is a rectangular piece of plank with a piece of wood nailed beneath for hooking on top of a bench and another for taking the thrust of saw or plane. It is used as a support while sawing and planning small objects. It is also used as a protection while chopping on top of the bench.
Mitre Box. The iron mitre box is the commercial type made of wood or metal. It consists of an iron frame fitted with a backsaw. Since, it can be adjusted at any angle, it is good for mitering mouldings and picture frames.
The wooden mitre box is the homemade type. It is used in cutting pieces of wood at right angle.
Clamps. These are tools used in furniture and cabinet making. It holds the work together while gluing and fastening pieces of wood.
There are several types of clamps. The most commonly used are:
a. C-clamp is named after its shape. It consists of an iron frame of letter C and a steel screw with a swivel tip. It is used for holding pieces of wood to be glued and nailed. C-clamp is also used in fastening wood on top of the bench while working on it. The sizes, when fully opened, range from 5.8 cm to 50.8 cm. Other manufacturers call this G-clamp because it also looks like an inverted letter G.
b. Bar clamp is used to hold long and big pieces of wood or plank to be glued. The sizes range from ½ m to 2.5 m.
c. Hand-Screw clamp is used to hold finishing work. It consists of two jaws made of hard wood and two steel spindles wherein the screws are opposite each other. They are opened or closed by holding the handles in each hand and revolving the hand screw. The size of the hand screw is indicated by the length of its jaws which ranges from 14 cm. to 45 cm.
Carpenter’s Pincers. This is used for pulling nails.
Other holding tools that are very useful in the shop are the following:
1. Wrenches
a. Adjustable Wrench
b. Monkey Wrench
c. Pipe Wrench
2. Pliers
a. Slip Joint Plier
b. Combination Plier
c. Vise Grip Plier
d. Long nose Plier
3. Saw Horse
Driving Tools
Most projects in woodworking involve joining pieces of wood. These pieces can be joined by gluing and interlocking wood joints. But these are often unnecessary so nails, panel pins, wedges, pegs, or screws are needed. For this purpose, different types of driving tools are needed like hammer, screwdriver, and mallet.
Hammer. There are many kinds of hammer but the most commonly used are the claw, ball peen, and cross peen hammers.
1. Claw Hammer is generally used for heavy work. The face is used for hammering of striking the nail. The opposite end of the head forms a curved claw which is used for pulling out old or poorly driven nail.
2. Cross Peen Hammer is similar to the claw hammer, the only difference – the peen is opposite the face. The peen is used for tapping a small nail held between the thumb and fingers before finally using the face.
3. Ball Peen Hammer has a round ball- like peen opposite the face. This is best for metal work.
Plumb and Level. Others call this spirit-level. This is a piece of wood (1 ½” x 2” x 18”), wherein a small spirit-level glass is fastened horizontally. The bubble inside the glass when it occupies the middle part indicates the straightness of the post.
Chalk Like. It is used for marking and testing long straight lines to determine the squareness or levelness of the surface in constructing the floors of a building. When the taut line is snapped on the floor, the spaces or parts without mark are the portions not in level.
Tri-square, steel square, sliding T-bevel, and callipers are measuring tools that can also be used as testing tools.
Hammer. There are many kinds of hammer but the most commonly used are the claw, ball peen, and cross peen hammers.
1. Claw Hammer is generally used for heavy work. The face is used for hammering of striking the nail. The opposite end of the head forms a curved claw which is used for pulling out old or poorly driven nail.
2. Cross Peen Hammer is similar to the claw hammer, the only difference – the peen is opposite the face. The peen is used for tapping a small nail held between the thumb and fingers before finally using the face.
3. Ball Peen Hammer has a round ball- like peen opposite the face. This is best for metal work.
Plumb and Level. Others call this spirit-level. This is a piece of wood (1 ½” x 2” x 18”), wherein a small spirit-level glass is fastened horizontally. The bubble inside the glass when it occupies the middle part indicates the straightness of the post.
Chalk Like. It is used for marking and testing long straight lines to determine the squareness or levelness of the surface in constructing the floors of a building. When the taut line is snapped on the floor, the spaces or parts without mark are the portions not in level.
Tri-square, steel square, sliding T-bevel, and callipers are measuring tools that can also be used as testing tools.
Miscellaneous Tools
There are some other important tools used in woodworking but are not mentioned in the previous classifications. These are grouped as miscellaneous tools like sharpening stones, nail set, saw set, and wrecking bar.
Sharpening Tools. Do you believe that dull tools are dangerous to use than sharp tools? The prerequisite to anyone who wants to become a carpenter is the ability to sharpen tools. The following stones are used for sharpening tool.
1. Oilstone is a smooth abrasive stone used for whetting or honing the cutting edge of tools with oil as the lubricant.
2. Whetstone uses water for sharpening.
3. Grindstone is a coarse sharpener used for removing the nicks.
4. Slipstone is a small oilstone used for whetting turning tools and gauges.
Nail Set. This is used to set the head of the nail below the surface. The tip is slightly concave or cup-shaped to prevent the head of the nail from sliding off.
Saw Set. This looks like a plier. It is used to set the teeth of the saw.
Wrecking Bar. This is an unassuming but very useful tool in withdrawing old or deformed big nails, demolishing walls and floorings, making holes, and as a wedge.
There are tools that are already classified but can still be reclassified according to their uses like:
1. Measuring and Testing Tools
a. Tri-square
b. Mitre Square
c. Steel Square
2. Measuring and Lining Tools
a. Marking Gauge
b. Mortise Gauge
c. Trammel Point
d. Divider
Sharpening Tools. Do you believe that dull tools are dangerous to use than sharp tools? The prerequisite to anyone who wants to become a carpenter is the ability to sharpen tools. The following stones are used for sharpening tool.
1. Oilstone is a smooth abrasive stone used for whetting or honing the cutting edge of tools with oil as the lubricant.
2. Whetstone uses water for sharpening.
3. Grindstone is a coarse sharpener used for removing the nicks.
4. Slipstone is a small oilstone used for whetting turning tools and gauges.
Nail Set. This is used to set the head of the nail below the surface. The tip is slightly concave or cup-shaped to prevent the head of the nail from sliding off.
Saw Set. This looks like a plier. It is used to set the teeth of the saw.
Wrecking Bar. This is an unassuming but very useful tool in withdrawing old or deformed big nails, demolishing walls and floorings, making holes, and as a wedge.
There are tools that are already classified but can still be reclassified according to their uses like:
1. Measuring and Testing Tools
a. Tri-square
b. Mitre Square
c. Steel Square
2. Measuring and Lining Tools
a. Marking Gauge
b. Mortise Gauge
c. Trammel Point
d. Divider